Posted on

To be a local

My local

I could tell you exactly where this wave is, and you’d still never surf it. My local wave is shithouse. Only howling wind slop gets in there, and even then, you might be waiting a month between sessions. It gives you time to think and dream. What would it be like to be a local…

Read more

Posted on

Car Anoia

fark. looks cold. yea no one out that guy had a go but looks hard to find one yea – hows that one? my wettie’s so damp bro ha! you gotta hang that shit! OOo look a-that left! yea I’m almost on it I reckon yea – crank the heaters man nah, waste of gas…

Read more

Posted on

One foot in, one foot out

Shoulder high slop greeted my companions and I session before last. It was sunny, and there was Wednesday afternoon glee in the air among some of us – empty lineup! At the very moment we scratched into our wetsuits, stealing crumbs of wax off each other, news was coming through of a brutal terror attack…

Read more